Friday, December 26, 2008
Xmas+Boxing Day Surf.
I went to Godrevy for the first time with my new 5'8 epoxy board which I didn't let myself surf till xmas day. It surfs completely different from any board I've ever ridden. I think because of the shape it's a lot looser. On the day after xmas I went to St. Agnes with the epoxy board and it was the first time I've seen St. Agnes super choppy. Anyways I had a really nice right and it was the first time I rode the board the "correct" way aka super loose and flowy.
Godrevy(not on xmas day and not photographed by me)
St. Agnes
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